Last updated: December 08, 2025
Written by Balotellio_Writer, Home Insurance & Wildfire Risk Basics Educator
If you live anywhere near the wildland–urban edge, you’ve probably seen one of these:
- A non-renewal letter saying your “wildfire risk is too high”
- An email telling you an inspection is coming
- A checklist asking about “defensible space within 100 feet”
Insurers are under pressure from bigger, hotter fires, so they care a lot about whether your home has wildfire defensible space. In some places (like California), state law actually requires homeowners in certain areas to maintain up to 100 feet of defensible space around structures.
The good news: a solid wildfire defensible space checklist for insurance not only reduces your risk of losing your home, it can also help you:
- Keep coverage in high-risk zones
- Qualify for better insurance terms
- Prove to an inspector that you’re doing things right
Let’s break this down in simple, “walk around your yard with this list” language.
1. What Is Wildfire Defensible Space (From an Insurance Point of View)?
Fire science folks (NFPA, FEMA, CAL FIRE, etc.) all describe defensible space as the managed area around your home where you reduce fuels (stuff that burns) so flames and embers are less likely to ignite the house.
Modern guidelines usually split defensible space into zones:
- Zone 0 / Immediate zone: 0–5 feet from the house
- The most critical. Should be non-combustible (no wood mulch, no shrubs up against siding).
- Zone 1 / Intermediate zone: 5–30 feet
- “Lean, clean, and green” – low, well-spaced plants, minimal fuel, no junk piles.
- Zone 2 / Extended zone: 30–100+ feet (or up to your property line)
- More open, “park-like” spacing of trees/shrubs to slow fire spread and reduce intensity.
California law, for example, requires up to 100 feet of defensible space around homes in designated areas (30 ft of lean, clean area plus 70 ft of reduced fuel zone), both as a fire-safety rule and an insurance maintenance requirement in practice.
For insurers, “good defensible space” =
“This home is less likely to burn, and firefighters have a chance to defend it.”
That makes you a better risk when they’re deciding whether to renew or cancel.
2. Zone 0 Checklist (0–5 Feet): The Insurance-Approval Hot Zone
Many experts now treat the first 0–5 feet as the most important part of your wildfire defensible space checklist for insurance. It’s where embers land and quietly set things on fire.
Walk this zone with your phone and a trash bag. The goal: make it as non-combustible as possible.
Hard surfaces and ground cover
- Replace wood mulch within 0–5 ft of the house with:
- Gravel, rock, pavers, concrete, or bare soil
- No bark, straw, dry leaves, or pine needles against the foundation
Vegetation
- Remove all woody shrubs, vines, and small trees touching the house or under windows
- No plants climbing up siding, porch posts, or railings
- If you keep a few plants, choose low, succulent, high-moisture plants in non-combustible pots, spaced away from siding
Stuff that burns
- Move these outside Zone 0:
- Firewood stacks
- Propane tanks and BBQs
- Plastic deck boxes and storage bins
- Outdoor furniture cushions (store inside or >5 ft away when not in use)
- Clear all debris from under and around decks, stairs, and porches (leaves, cardboard, spare lumber)
Roof and gutters (still part of “immediate” zone for embers)
- Clean dry leaves, needles, and debris from roof, gutters, and valleys
- Check that gutters are metal (or at least cleared) and not full of pine straw
Insurers and wildfire-prep programs repeatedly highlight ember-ignited debris in this 0–5 ft zone as a leading cause of homes burning in wildfires. Many carriers now ask about non-combustible Zone 0 in their inspections.
3. Zone 1 Checklist (5–30 Feet): Lean, Clean, and Green
Next up in your wildfire defensible space checklist for insurance: the 5–30 ft ring around the house.
The big idea here (from CAL FIRE, FEMA, NFPA, and multiple insurers) is:
- Keep things low (no tall brush)
- Keep things separate (no continuous fuel path)
- Keep things green and well-watered, where allowed
Walk this zone and check:
Ground fuels
- Grass cut to around 4 inches or less, depending on local rules
- Remove dead grass, weeds, leaves, and pine needles
- Break up thick shrubs; no big, continuous hedge running right to the house
Trees
- Space tree canopies so they’re typically 10–18 ft apart (more on slopes)
- Prune lower branches so there’s at least 6 ft of clearance from the ground (or the lower third of smaller trees) to reduce “ladder fuels”
- Keep branches at least 10 ft away from the roof, chimney, and power lines, per common defensible space guidance.
Combustible structures and items
- Move combustible sheds, playhouses, trellises, or outbuildings to 30 ft or more from the home where possible (some state programs explicitly call this out).
- Move wood piles, scrap lumber, and fuel cans out to Zone 2 or farther
- Keep propane tanks away from windows and doors
Irrigation and maintenance
- Where water rules allow, keep this zone well-watered and maintained (no dead shrubs, no drought-killed plants)
This is the zone where insurance inspectors often note: “Excess vegetation,” “Overhanging branches,” or “Wood piles too close.” Cleaning this up is one of the fastest ways to pass a defensible-space inspection.
4. Zone 2 Checklist (30–100+ Feet): Slow the Fire Down
Zone 2 is usually 30–100 feet from the home (or up to your property line). Laws like California’s PRC 4291 and various county codes use this zone to require thinning and fuel reduction, not total clearing.
If you have that much yard, aim for:
Overall look
- “Open and park-like,” not a wall of brush
- Trees and bushes are clumped and separated, not forming a continuous canopy
Vegetation spacing
- Thin small trees and shrubs between larger trees
- Remove dead or dying plants, branches, and downed logs
- Clear out “ladder fuels” (bushes directly under tree branches) so a surface fire can’t jump into the canopy
Ground cover
- Okay to have grass or native plants, but avoid tall, dry, unmanaged growth
- Rake and remove thick leaf or needle litter where it piles up near structures or under tree clusters
Beyond 100 ft
- Many guidelines say maintain defensible space up to 100 ft or your property line, whichever comes first. If your lot is smaller, your “Zone 2” just stops at the line; you’re not expected to clear your neighbour’s land.
Insurers care here because a well-managed extended zone makes it much harder for a fast-moving wildfire to reach your house with high intensity.
5. Insurance-Focused Defensible Space Checklist (What Inspectors Look For)
Different companies have different forms, but they tend to check the same core items. Defensible space guides, model inspection forms, and insurer wildfire programs all highlight these as inspection points.
Use this as a quick “will I pass an insurance inspection?” list:
Around the house (0–5 ft)
- No wood mulch, bark, or dry plants touching the house
- No firewood or lumber stacks next to walls or under eaves
- No combustible items stored under decks; area is cleaned out
- Roof and gutters free of pine needles, leaves, and debris
5–30 ft
- Grass cut low; no continuous tall weeds or brush
- Dead plants, leaves, and downed branches cleared out
- Trees limbed up (lower branches removed) and not touching roof or chimney
- No big wood piles right next to the house
30–100+ ft
- Brush and small trees thinned; no solid wall of vegetation leading to the house
- Dead trees removed or cut back where practical
- Slopes treated carefully (more spacing on steeper areas)
Access and address
- Driveway clear enough for fire trucks (vegetation trimmed back, no low branches)
- Address number clearly visible from the road
Some insurance-focused mitigation services explicitly say they document these conditions for carriers to show that a home meets defensible space standards needed to keep coverage.
6. How to Document Defensible Space for Your Insurer
This is where your “wildfire defensible space checklist insurance” becomes evidence, not just chores.
You want three kinds of proof: photos, a simple map, and (ideally) a third-party inspection.
A. Photos (before/after)
- Take wide shots of each side of the home showing the first 30+ feet
- Take close-ups showing:
- Bare or non-combustible Zone 0
- Trimmed trees and cleared vegetation
- Clean roof and gutters
- If you’ve done work (tree removal, deck cleanup, new gravel), capture “before and after” if possible
Some state and insurer resources specifically advise homeowners to photograph defensible space work to support both insurance and fire-safety compliance.
B. Simple diagram or map
- Sketch your house and approximate distances:
- Mark Zone 0, Zone 1, Zone 2
- Label major trees, propane tanks, sheds, and fuel breaks (gravel, driveways)
- You can do this on paper, in a notes app, or on a satellite printout
C. Professional inspection or community programs
- Some areas offer:
- Local fire-department defensible space inspections
- State programs (like California’s Safer from Wildfires or Firewise USA® communities)
- These can give you:
- An inspection report
- A certificate or letter
- Sometimes better insurance options or discounts
When your insurer asks for proof, you can send:
- Photo set
- Diagram
- Any official inspection reports
That’s much more convincing than just saying, “Yeah, I keep the yard clean.”
7. Quick Weekend Action Plan
If your brain is full, here’s the simplified version you can turn into a checklist for your readers.
Day 1 – House Hug (0–5 ft)
- Remove all wood mulch and plants touching the house
- Clear under decks/porches; nothing flammable stored there
- Clean roof and gutters
Day 2 – 30-Foot Bubble
- Mow grass low around the home
- Remove dead plants, weeds, and junk within 30 ft
- Limb up trees and move wood piles out to 30+ ft
Day 3 – Extended Zone + Documentation
- Thin brush and small trees out to 100 ft (or property line)
- Take “after” photos of all sides
- Sketch a quick defensible space map
- Book or inquire about a fire-department or community inspection if available
Now you’ve got both real risk reduction and a wildfire defensible space checklist insurance can actually work with.
8. Quick FAQ: Wildfire Defensible Space Checklist for Insurance
Q1: Do I legally have to create defensible space?
In many wildfire-prone states (like California), law requires up to 100 ft of defensible space around homes in designated areas. That’s separate from insurance, but insurers often rely on the same standards and inspections when deciding whether to insure or renew you.
Q2: Will good defensible space guarantee my insurance company won’t drop me?
No guarantee, but it helps. In high-risk wildfire zones, some insurers are still pulling back or raising premiums even for well-mitigated homes. But strong defensible space and documentation:
- Makes it easier to keep coverage
- Gives you a better shot with other insurers if you need to shop around
Q3: What if my property isn’t 100 ft deep?
Most guidance says “100 ft or to your property line,” whichever comes first. You’re not expected to clear your neighbour’s land, but you are expected to do everything reasonable on yours.
Q4: Do I have to remove every tree near my house?
Not usually. The goal is spacing and maintenance, not turning your yard into a parking lot. Many official documents stress separating tree crowns, limbing branches, and removing dead material rather than clear-cutting.
Q5: What if my insurer’s inspection fails me even after I do all this?
You can:
- Ask for a copy of the inspection report
- Fix the specific items they flagged
- Send new photos or request a re-inspection
- If you still get non-renewed, use your defensible space documentation to:
- Shop other insurers
- Show mitigation if you need to go to a FAIR Plan or specialty carrier
- Support a complaint to your state insurance department if you think you’re being treated unfairly